2014-03-09

Drafting, knitting...

I decided to try drafting the "blouse with bust dart" from Müller & Sohn as a possibly useful comparison to the more fitted base pattern. I have the upper parts finished, more or less, although I haven't dealt with the back shoulder dart (or lack thereof) yet.

M&S have you shift the shoulder seam forward 1cm on your base patterns; they say it looks better. I don't disagree, but I'm beginning to suspect that many pattern companies don't do this. For purposes of having an easy-to-use basis for comparison, maybe I should make my fitting shells without the shift (or at least with both lines present and marked). It does also explain part of why the shoulder notch looks so far forward on the sleeve I've drafted (not that it should be symmetric, of course).

I say this partly because I've been trying to compare a Neue Mode blouse pattern to my fitting shells and finding my front armholes disproportionately short. I might need to shorten the NM armhole regardless, but maybe I should try my blouse fitting shell in cloth, with sleeves, before rushing to judgment. Do I have the patience? We'll see.

Today I also was desperately looking for some hand work to do, so I tried to pick something to knit in a sport-weight wool I have (Spinning Flock Farm Wensleydale). So far I haven't really liked any of the swatches I've tried. I need to find some sort of stitch pattern and gauge that... looks like something. I might kick the can down the road and go back to sewing for the week, since the need for hand work has passed.

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