Back to the jacket

I've decided Neue Mode 22957 is finished, so it's back to the Schnittquelle Malmedy jacket.

The fit seems OK in front now. I might do just a bit of an FBA if I were to cut this pattern again.

I decided to drop the top of the back 1.25" by laying the pattern piece on again, shifted down by that much, blending the difference near the armhole notch (remember this is a raglan sleeve). I decided I needed to do this because I pinned that amount out as a big horizontal tuck. It's made a huge difference. The balance is much better, and the hip area is big enough now that it's in the right place. Of course, this means the back has to be eased onto the sleeves, but in a boiled wool like what I'm using, it's hardly even noticeable.

After doing this, my original alterations to the back waist darts were all wrong; I pretty much took them out and I'll check for the last remaining bits tomorrow. They may still need some more adjustment after that. The back armholes are still not quite right, just at the underarm; they may need to be raised, but all I can really do at this point is let out those seams a little.

Finally, I'm working on establishing a roll line. I might tack on a fusible tape for this (normally I'd use twill tape, but I'd want a dark color on this fabric, and I'm all out of black) at least for the upper parts; I might have to leave it off down toward the waist, where it could show. So far, it seems like the collar has to be rearranged carefully every time I put on the jacket; taping a roll line would help make it more permanent, I hope. I marked one with pins on the form and now I've got it chalked on the underside.