2014-03-14

Blouse fitting

I've got all the pieces of Neue Mode 22957 together now. Thoughts:
  • I don't have the buttons and buttonholes on yet. I think I will need to add them before I can really be sure about most of the issues below. In turn, that means I have to decide on the hem length, at least in front... ugh.
  • I'm glad I sized down in the shoulders. It may still be too wide across the back. This is partly my fault for forgetting to plug the alterations I'd made to my LWD (second test of my fitting shell) back into my cross back measurement. I might be able to cut the back armholes inward, but I also don't want to overdo it and end up with too little reach room.
  • There are definitely other back fit issues as well. I suspect they amount to too-little hip ease masquerading as swayback. Moving the back dart shaping upward seemed to help (it used to go all the way to the hem and I've now stopped it 2" above my cut edge), so I'm going to try moving it up further.
  • The shoulder line might be a bit too sloped, or it could be that I don't have the fronts lined up quite right and they are tipping apart. See first point about closures.
  • I had been worried about the front dart shaping, but it seems like it might be OK.
  • The gathering really is concentrated in the top of the sleeve cap, as the illustration indicates. Fine with me.

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