- 2 projects done: LWD and black crepe dress
- I haven't got around to picking my exact 4 old things to donate, but I'm sure they exist; more on that later. (They won't go out until next week, anyway, next time I go in the direction of the donation bins.)
- Fabric stash: 4.95 yards out, none in
- Schnittquelle hoodie cut
2014-02-28
February results
2014-02-27
Hoodie cut
I've cut out the Schnittquelle hoodie; I'm using a rather lightly felted boiled wool that behaves almost more like a regular knit, so we'll see how that goes.
On the sleeve, I increased the bicep width. Theoretically I should have reduced the cap size, since I shortened the armhole, but with the bicep alteration the cap height was already looking suspiciously short. As a consequence there might be quite a bit more ease than there should be. Again, I'll see how it goes. I could always put in darts, I suppose; they wouldn't look too out of place given the decorative darts on the front.
The next step is to thread-trace all those front darts.
On the sleeve, I increased the bicep width. Theoretically I should have reduced the cap size, since I shortened the armhole, but with the bicep alteration the cap height was already looking suspiciously short. As a consequence there might be quite a bit more ease than there should be. Again, I'll see how it goes. I could always put in darts, I suppose; they wouldn't look too out of place given the decorative darts on the front.
The next step is to thread-trace all those front darts.
2014-02-26
That'll be a no on the belt.
So I had been considering making a belt to go with Butterick 3241, but while I was working with the buckle I held it wrong, and this happened.
I suppose it could maybe be soldered, but given that it needs to be under some tension to stay closed, it'll likely just break again.
Given that I'm moving in a matter of months, I'll take this as an excellent excuse to throw this thing out. It wasn't a vintage piece, so I'd warn you as to where it came from, except that I don't remember (I'd had it at least 5 years).
The grosgrain came from a 100 yard reel, so no big loss.
 |
| Cool story, bro |
Given that I'm moving in a matter of months, I'll take this as an excellent excuse to throw this thing out. It wasn't a vintage piece, so I'd warn you as to where it came from, except that I don't remember (I'd had it at least 5 years).
The grosgrain came from a 100 yard reel, so no big loss.
2014-02-25
Next pattern
I'm taking a look at Schnittquelle's Trondheim pullover for my next project. I've traced off the front and back so far. In the process, I graded length and width out of the upper chest and back, added some length back just above the waist, straightened out the center back seam (for the moment) as I had to do that on my fitting shell, and added width at the front side seams above and below the waist. Probably I will add some length at the hem when cutting. Since I changed the armhole a lot, and will need more bicep space, the sleeve will probably need massive changes. On the other hand, I haven't changed the neckline at all, so the hood should stay the same.
I can't say which of these changes are entirely normal for me at this point, because I have very little experience with my new fitting shell, but I will say there were no big surprises. The pattern itself is single-sized, by the way, and what I have is about half a size smaller than my measurements. I think that was probably a good compromise between getting the upper torso close to narrow and short enough and the rest of the measurements close to right. It's possible I've shrunk the shoulder line a bit too much; I should re-compare my fitting shell.
I can't say which of these changes are entirely normal for me at this point, because I have very little experience with my new fitting shell, but I will say there were no big surprises. The pattern itself is single-sized, by the way, and what I have is about half a size smaller than my measurements. I think that was probably a good compromise between getting the upper torso close to narrow and short enough and the rest of the measurements close to right. It's possible I've shrunk the shoulder line a bit too much; I should re-compare my fitting shell.
2014-02-24
Butterick 3421 about done
I finished hemming the dress. I will say the cut was remarkably level, and remained so after being left alone to drop for a week. Maybe there is something to that weird grainline on the side front. Also, I clipped the side seams under the arms and will see if that resolves my annoyance with how the armhole bindings were sitting. I hope nothing ends up gappy. Besides that, I have a buckle I could use to make a sort-of-formal belt to go with this, but I'm not sure I have the motivation.
2014-02-16
Next project, and a break
I'm leaning toward cutting the Schnittquelle Pulli Trondheim next. I have a teal-green boiled wool that I think might work, but I have to take another look at it and decide whether the hand is right.
In any case, no sewing is going to happen for the next week or so, so I don't plan on there being any posting either.
In any case, no sewing is going to happen for the next week or so, so I don't plan on there being any posting either.
2014-02-15
Next
The LWD is officially done and posted, so now I'm thinking about what's next. In the slightly longer term, probably it'll be trying to get sleeves on my fitting shell. Müller & Sohn have a (torso-length) bodice block IIRC, so I'd most likely use that instead of the whole dress, to save on test fabric.
At the same time, I also want to get another boiled wool project started; that'll be from a Schnittquelle pattern, I think... haven't picked which one.
Lastly (or firstly), I have to make a decision on the Butterick 3421 crepe dress (and hem it). I think part of the problem with the armhole binding is really just that the underarm seam allowances are too wide and need clipping... which will probably make another linty mess, as happens every time I cut into that fabric.
This next week is not going to be a great time to get anything done, though, so a lot of this will have to wait until the last week of this month, at least.
At the same time, I also want to get another boiled wool project started; that'll be from a Schnittquelle pattern, I think... haven't picked which one.
Lastly (or firstly), I have to make a decision on the Butterick 3421 crepe dress (and hem it). I think part of the problem with the armhole binding is really just that the underarm seam allowances are too wide and need clipping... which will probably make another linty mess, as happens every time I cut into that fabric.
This next week is not going to be a great time to get anything done, though, so a lot of this will have to wait until the last week of this month, at least.
2014-02-14
Welp,
the black dress could be called done, except for the hem.
I'm not all that happy with the neckline and armhole bindings; they are too thick for my taste. In hindsight, hem lace or even that crispy cotton-poly bias tape might have been a better finish (if turned to the inside). Because this fabric frays so much, I didn't think I should leave the edges of the bias raw, even though they were bias, and turning them under just adds to the bulk. I don't think it looks worse than a lot of RTW knitwear (not that I'm all that impressed with a lot of RTW knitwear) and I'm not sure I want to cut the neckline and armholes down any further, so I may just leave them.
I did pin the left-side opening closed and found it wasn't really necessary, so I sewed up that seam.
The LWD dress was done last week and is still done. I did get some more photos. Although there might be something slightly off about the fit at CF, I think it's one of the better finishing jobs I've done. I may want to refine my fitting shell by looking to Minott for the skirt; the Müller method seems like it might place the side seam unusually far forward (not that that's necessarily a bad thing). As far as the upper parts, the real test will be setting in a sleeve.
I'm not all that happy with the neckline and armhole bindings; they are too thick for my taste. In hindsight, hem lace or even that crispy cotton-poly bias tape might have been a better finish (if turned to the inside). Because this fabric frays so much, I didn't think I should leave the edges of the bias raw, even though they were bias, and turning them under just adds to the bulk. I don't think it looks worse than a lot of RTW knitwear (not that I'm all that impressed with a lot of RTW knitwear) and I'm not sure I want to cut the neckline and armholes down any further, so I may just leave them.
I did pin the left-side opening closed and found it wasn't really necessary, so I sewed up that seam.
The LWD dress was done last week and is still done. I did get some more photos. Although there might be something slightly off about the fit at CF, I think it's one of the better finishing jobs I've done. I may want to refine my fitting shell by looking to Minott for the skirt; the Müller method seems like it might place the side seam unusually far forward (not that that's necessarily a bad thing). As far as the upper parts, the real test will be setting in a sleeve.
2014-02-13
This week is dragging...
but I'm getting the bindings onto the armholes and neckline of the black crepe dress. I'm hoping they won't be too lumpy. Ideally I'd have used silk organza or something like that, something much thinner than the wool self fabric, but I don't have anything in black and being on fabric austerity, I refuse to buy more... especially since I'm trying to avoid black.
I'm hoping to get the rest of the neckline, and the side closure if any, done in the next couple of days. Although I know it isn't technically true, I feel like I've scarcely had time to think this week. At least all this hand sewing requires almost no concentration.
I'm hoping to get the rest of the neckline, and the side closure if any, done in the next couple of days. Although I know it isn't technically true, I feel like I've scarcely had time to think this week. At least all this hand sewing requires almost no concentration.
2014-02-11
WIPs
So, I put together the main parts of Butterick 3421 today. It fit reasonably well, except for gapping at the armholes — I had to take a lot out under the arms and also tighten up the tips of the shoulders. Besides that I had to shape the top parts of the side front seams, just below the shoulders, to hollow them out slightly.
The pattern's meant to have a short placket in the left side seam. I meant to replace this with a zipper, but as it turns out, it may not even need a closure. The waist is not extremely fitted, the armholes and neckline are easy to get into and out of, and the crepe is stretchy. We'll see.
I also worked on photographing the LWD since there's a PR contest for that. You have to accessorize... ugh. Not one of my skills, hobbies, or interests, and I definitely have a shortage of things that go with ivory since it's so rare that I wear that light a color. Oh well... first world problems.
The pattern's meant to have a short placket in the left side seam. I meant to replace this with a zipper, but as it turns out, it may not even need a closure. The waist is not extremely fitted, the armholes and neckline are easy to get into and out of, and the crepe is stretchy. We'll see.
I also worked on photographing the LWD since there's a PR contest for that. You have to accessorize... ugh. Not one of my skills, hobbies, or interests, and I definitely have a shortage of things that go with ivory since it's so rare that I wear that light a color. Oh well... first world problems.
2014-02-10
Butterick 3421: the graded pattern
I've taken out length above the waist, and width: the most at the waist, a little less at the hip, and less at the underarm/bust. For the most part, I tried to preserve the original ease amounts while scaling down to my size. The exception was at the bust, where the pattern seemed to have an inordinately small ease allowance.
Afterward I copied these again to drop the neckline, cut in the armholes, and add 8" length at the hem.
2014-02-09
Wool crepe
Today I cut Butterick 3421 from some stashed black wool crepe. (I've recently been trying to avoid buying more black because I don't think it's my best color — dark brown, gray, and almost any other dark color would be better —but this was a sunk cost, and I may have a use for it in any case.)
Before I cut, I looked in some of my books to make sure it really could be cut two-way ("without nap" and so forth). I was surprised to see all the contradictory information: Shaeffer says not to have wool crepe preshrunk at all (at least in my old edition of the book), Parker says to have the drycleaner do it with little or no steam, Betzina says to have it preshrunk (by the drycleaner or in the washing machine) or it will shrink a whole size; the first two say to use as little steam as possible while pressing, while Betzina says to "steam iron".
Be that as it may, I'd previously ironed the whole piece with as much steam as my iron would produce (admittedly not much) and observed no ill effects. Maybe it's because it's so dark; it's also probably a pretty coarse weave, as far as crepe goes. I could see seam imprints as being something that could happen with this fabric, so I will be careful in that regard.
Before I cut, I looked in some of my books to make sure it really could be cut two-way ("without nap" and so forth). I was surprised to see all the contradictory information: Shaeffer says not to have wool crepe preshrunk at all (at least in my old edition of the book), Parker says to have the drycleaner do it with little or no steam, Betzina says to have it preshrunk (by the drycleaner or in the washing machine) or it will shrink a whole size; the first two say to use as little steam as possible while pressing, while Betzina says to "steam iron".
Be that as it may, I'd previously ironed the whole piece with as much steam as my iron would produce (admittedly not much) and observed no ill effects. Maybe it's because it's so dark; it's also probably a pretty coarse weave, as far as crepe goes. I could see seam imprints as being something that could happen with this fabric, so I will be careful in that regard.
2014-02-08
Butterick 3421: first look at the cut
I have been measuring and examining this pattern to see what alterations it might need.
From the sketch one would expect an ordinary princess-seamed style, but one of its most interesting aspects is the side front's grainline and shape.
It isn't shown on the envelope back, but the grainline tilts much more toward the side front seam than usual. It's nearly parallel to the side front seam along the flared part of the skirt. The piece also continues the inward curve (which starts below the bust, as it would on any princess-seamed dress) far below the waist; flare is added below the hip. I don't know whether these oddities are a good idea or not; it'd be interesting to see them in fabric.
Comparing this to my fitting shell, first of all, it's meant to be about two sizes bigger: 40-34-43". That seems to be reflected in the larger waist and hip measurements on the pattern, though there is surprisingly little bust ease (at most about 1/2" total). I have to wonder if either the previous owner trimmed some off (always hard to tell with unprinted patterns; there's an area without notches or hole punches where this could have been done without it being evident) or if this is a reflection of the 1920s' flat-chested look. There seems to be around 4.75" waist ease and 2.5" hip ease, though exactly how far down the full hip is meant to be can only be guessed at.
The waist length also seems inordinately long at first glance, especially in front, though it may be partly that the shoulder seams are placed farther back than I am used to. I need to recheck that. The armholes look quite shallow, but it's nice that the pattern gives separate cutting marks for the sleeved and sleeveless versions.
From the sketch one would expect an ordinary princess-seamed style, but one of its most interesting aspects is the side front's grainline and shape.
It isn't shown on the envelope back, but the grainline tilts much more toward the side front seam than usual. It's nearly parallel to the side front seam along the flared part of the skirt. The piece also continues the inward curve (which starts below the bust, as it would on any princess-seamed dress) far below the waist; flare is added below the hip. I don't know whether these oddities are a good idea or not; it'd be interesting to see them in fabric.
Comparing this to my fitting shell, first of all, it's meant to be about two sizes bigger: 40-34-43". That seems to be reflected in the larger waist and hip measurements on the pattern, though there is surprisingly little bust ease (at most about 1/2" total). I have to wonder if either the previous owner trimmed some off (always hard to tell with unprinted patterns; there's an area without notches or hole punches where this could have been done without it being evident) or if this is a reflection of the 1920s' flat-chested look. There seems to be around 4.75" waist ease and 2.5" hip ease, though exactly how far down the full hip is meant to be can only be guessed at.
The waist length also seems inordinately long at first glance, especially in front, though it may be partly that the shoulder seams are placed farther back than I am used to. I need to recheck that. The armholes look quite shallow, but it's nice that the pattern gives separate cutting marks for the sleeved and sleeveless versions.
2014-02-07
Next project
The LWD is done. (Finally!) I can't press it as wrinkle-free as I'd like, but that's just the way it is with the fabric I used and the tools I have.
Next up (assuming I don't change my mind once I examine the cut of the pattern) may be this:
My pattern leaflets date this number to 1930. I'd make one without the flounce, bow, sleeves, or scallops, but possibly change the length. I'm undecided about what neckline shape to use, though it presumably won't be the double V. Those tend to fall off the shoulders if you don't do extra work to stop that... not something I'm going for here.
Next up (assuming I don't change my mind once I examine the cut of the pattern) may be this:
My pattern leaflets date this number to 1930. I'd make one without the flounce, bow, sleeves, or scallops, but possibly change the length. I'm undecided about what neckline shape to use, though it presumably won't be the double V. Those tend to fall off the shoulders if you don't do extra work to stop that... not something I'm going for here.
2014-02-06
Spider faces
I wish I could say I was done with the LWD, but there's still more to do around the vent and shoulder seams, not to mention all the final pressing.
So here are a few spider faces.
So here are a few spider faces.
2014-02-04
Lining's in the LWD
2014-02-03
Understitching by hand
I've got the facings lining of the LWD clipped, pressed, and turned, and now I'm hand-understitching it, using a small backstitch. I get the distinct impression that this gives a softer, more flexible edge than machine understitching. You can also get all the way around sharp curves and corners, no problem.
Also in this case, I don't like how the thread I'd have had to use in my machine looks against my lining fabric — just as well it isn't visible in the lining seams. (With the very thin needle I've had to use for my dense silk crepe lining, my machine refuses to push the better-matching but slightly-too-heavy silk thread that I have through the very dense silk crepe; I've had to use thin cotton "darning and embroidery" thread instead.)
Also in this case, I don't like how the thread I'd have had to use in my machine looks against my lining fabric — just as well it isn't visible in the lining seams. (With the very thin needle I've had to use for my dense silk crepe lining, my machine refuses to push the better-matching but slightly-too-heavy silk thread that I have through the very dense silk crepe; I've had to use thin cotton "darning and embroidery" thread instead.)
2014-02-02
Sunday progress
I've sewn the outer hem and clipped the neckline and armhole curves on the LWD... need to finish pressing all those curves next.
Also, I'd finished relining the navy coat, but now that there's been some sun and I've had a chance to see it in good light, I've decided I'm not going to keep it. The stains/bleaching/whatever it is at the hem are more extensive than I thought, so given that and the issues with the design, I'm probably not going to wear it. It takes up a lot of space, too. If I'd had the decision to make now, instead of several years ago, as to whether to buy more lining and reline this coat, I wouldn't have done it.
How do you feel when it's time to get rid of a project you've made? I used to have a hard time doing this, but since I've made maybe close to 300 things, in most cases I don't care that much anymore. It's almost always out of sight, out of mind. I generally take pictures so I don't have to completely forget, but I can't say I usually look at them again later.
Also, I'd finished relining the navy coat, but now that there's been some sun and I've had a chance to see it in good light, I've decided I'm not going to keep it. The stains/bleaching/whatever it is at the hem are more extensive than I thought, so given that and the issues with the design, I'm probably not going to wear it. It takes up a lot of space, too. If I'd had the decision to make now, instead of several years ago, as to whether to buy more lining and reline this coat, I wouldn't have done it.
How do you feel when it's time to get rid of a project you've made? I used to have a hard time doing this, but since I've made maybe close to 300 things, in most cases I don't care that much anymore. It's almost always out of sight, out of mind. I generally take pictures so I don't have to completely forget, but I can't say I usually look at them again later.
2014-02-01
Some stash stats while I'm not sewing
I've been foiled from sewing for the past few days, but there's this, I guess.
The current composition of my stash (by area and by main fiber category):
The current composition of my stash (by area and by main fiber category):
- 71% wovens, 29% knits. ("Knits" includes boiled wool and swimsuit fabric as well as the usual jersey, interlock, etc.)
- 29% wools, among my favorite things to sew, but this is a bit too much given what I typically wear. Recently I've at least been careful to get ones that can be hand-washed.
- 22% cottons, another pleasant fiber to sew (as long as we're not talking all-cotton knits).
- 16% rayons. A lot of these are linings, some in rather iffy colors, but I've kept them since they can be hidden inside garments and they don't take up much stash space. I wouldn't mind having more rayon challis if I could find it in nice prints.
- 13% silks, more than I want, honestly. I know silks are supposed to be nice and all, but the care requirements are just annoying, and for much of the year they seem either too hot or too cold to wear. I also don't particularly like the shine on most of them. I do have several pieces in nice colors, though.
- 11% synthetics. These get a bad rap, sometimes deserved. Their main advantage IMO is they dry quickly (important for the moment since I don't have a dryer) and some of them don't wrinkle. I'd consider getting more microfibers but not a lot else.
- 8% linen. I haven't been getting much more of this lately, because where I've been living it hasn't been particularly hot, by my standards — IIRC it's been 37C, once, for a little while —nor is linen a particular specialty of the area. Once I move somewhere hotter I will want more, not least because I love sewing it.
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