2015-04-02

Changing construction order of a faced-waist skirt for easy pin-fitting and alteration

A skirt with a faced/contour waist and a center back zipper is probably about the easiest to alter at the side seams. The zipper isn't in the way, and there isn't a one-piece waistband that might have to be taken partway off. It can be made even easier if you sew the facings to each piece first, do all the clipping, grading, and understitching, and only then sew the side seams of the skirt and facings. You do have to be careful to match the facing seamlines at the top of the skirt, and there may be a slight bit less ability to trim and reduce bulk at the tops of the side seams. On the other hand, the facing/skirt seams won't need to come partially undone if you ever have to rip the side seams to take them in or let them out.

This is what I did for the Neue Mode skirt I'm working on, since I wasn't quite sure of my current size. (Turns out my guess was correct.) It made pin-fitting very easy, and because the facings are already sewn to the waist, there isn't the risk of stretching an unfinished waistline out as you try the thing on.

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