2014-01-25

Dress-to-fitting-shell alterations (note to self)

Alterations I'd already done in the base pattern:
  1. The back seam is meant to go in by 2cm at the waist, tapering to nothing up at the neckline, but continuing straight down from the waist to the hem. I let all of this out, i.e. I made a completely straight back seam.
  2. The front waist dart is meant to continue down from the waist, so it continues to take skirt width out all the way to the hem. I changed it into a fisheye dart instead because it seemed I needed more room there in the hip circumference. I also reshaped this dart so its maximum intake was a bit above the waist.
  3. I reshaped the hip curve, making it into more of an S-curve.
Alterations to the dress pattern (not design changes):
  1. 1cm length-only FBA as shown in Müller.
  2. Added 1cm at the CB hem, curving up to 0 at the side seam.
Alterations to the dress, after having cut and sewn:
  1. Take in the back neck "darts" 1/4" (each leg), tapering this down to nothing quite a ways down the back (re-measure where exactly).
  2. Take in the front neck "darts" 1/4", tapering to nothing at 1 3/4" below the finished edge (recheck this). Surprisingly, this seems to be needed to keep the front of the dress up, so that it doesn't collapse inward further down.
  3. Let out 1/4" on each middle back-center back seam from the hem, up to the full hip mark, then tapering to nothing at the waist (recheck shaping).
  4. Take in 1/4" on side seams from hem up to high hip.
I have not had to tighten up the armholes; it looks like raising the bottoms of them 1cm was enough, and they still sit flat to the figure.

What I expect to transfer back to the fitting shell:
  1. Something accomplishing dress alteration #3. This could go in a side-back seam, or it could be pivoted in if flare at the hem is acceptable. For a fitting shell with a waist seam, there doesn't have to be any such compromise.
  2. If #1, then also dress alteration #4.
  3. Maybe the back length adjustment (dress pattern alteration #2). See how it goes with the hem.
  4. Maybe not the FBA. Depends on what's worn under it. I'm not sure the extra length was really needed (see dress alteration #2).

No comments:

Post a Comment