- The basic pattern is supposed to have a very long front waist dart, from (below) the bust, to the greatest intake at the waist, curving to a smaller intake at the hip, then continuing straight down to the hem. The book says that this continuation can be reduced or left off if necessary. I just turned this into a normal, hip-length fisheye dart, and also reduced the intake. The smallest part is now actually above the marked waistline.
- I made the hip curves at the side seams much flatter, and they actually continue almost straight for 2-3cm below the waistline, so it's more of an S-curve than a normal hip curve. If I compare my new fitting shell to my old one, I used to think my waistline was about that much lower than I have it on this pattern. Maybe it was. Now, I have bone structure and "other structure" that is keeping my waist higher up. Before, maybe that bone structure was obscured and/or I had more "other structure" going on higher up. Or maybe I just placed the waist too low before — I could definitely see that happening with the way I worked with the fitting shell pattern at the time.
- I lengthened the centermost back waist darts by about 2cm at the bottom.
- I dropped the front neckline by a little over 1cm, and widened it slightly at the sides.
- When tracing off the separate skirt pieces, I slid in 1cm of width, half centered on each dart (increasing the dart intake to keep the waist size the same). I haven't yet tested the fit to decide whether this was a good idea or whether I'd have do something to the side seams as a result.
Comparing this to my old fitting shell, it's surprising how much narrower it looks, especially in the bodice and the width across the armhole. I don't know how much of this is an ease difference vs. a size difference.
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