- The back seam is meant to go in by 2cm at the waist, tapering to nothing up at the neckline, but continuing straight down from the waist to the hem. I let all of this out, i.e. I made a completely straight back seam.
- The front waist dart is meant to continue down from the waist, so it continues to take skirt width out all the way to the hem. I changed it into a fisheye dart instead because it seemed I needed more room there in the hip circumference. I also reshaped this dart so its maximum intake was a bit above the waist.
- I reshaped the hip curve, making it into more of an S-curve.
- 1cm length-only FBA as shown in Müller.
- Added 1cm at the CB hem, curving up to 0 at the side seam.
- Take in the back neck "darts" 1/4" (each leg), tapering this down to nothing quite a ways down the back (re-measure where exactly).
- Take in the front neck "darts" 1/4", tapering to nothing at 1 3/4" below the finished edge (recheck this). Surprisingly, this seems to be needed to keep the front of the dress up, so that it doesn't collapse inward further down.
- Let out 1/4" on each middle back-center back seam from the hem, up to the full hip mark, then tapering to nothing at the waist (recheck shaping).
- Take in 1/4" on side seams from hem up to high hip.
What I expect to transfer back to the fitting shell:
- Something accomplishing dress alteration #3. This could go in a side-back seam, or it could be pivoted in if flare at the hem is acceptable. For a fitting shell with a waist seam, there doesn't have to be any such compromise.
- If #1, then also dress alteration #4.
- Maybe the back length adjustment (dress pattern alteration #2). See how it goes with the hem.
- Maybe not the FBA. Depends on what's worn under it. I'm not sure the extra length was really needed (see dress alteration #2).
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