2014-05-04

Simplicity 1540: Topstitching the princess seams

I worked on my boiled wool coat a little more today. (In terms of the changed construction order I posted earlier, I was at step 7, having bypassed step 6.) In case I haven't mentioned it, I took in the front and back princess seams 1/2" at the shoulder line, tapering to nothing at the back and the front notches — it conveniently worked out that that was about how far down the alteration was needed. I decided the shoulder seams themselves didn't need alteration, so I trimmed my altered princess seams down, then closed the shoulder seams the rest of the way. Then I topstitched each princess seam in one step, continuously right over the shoulder seam. This way there was no issue with matching both the princess seamlines and the topstitching lines, which would've been necessary if I'd done the shoulder seams afterward. The downside is you then have a lot more fabric to deal with and potentially scrunch in the harp of your machine. I try to remember clear all the random things off the sewing table before doing something like this, because they'll otherwise very likely end up on the floor.

After that, I set in the sleeves. I don't know if the instructions tell you to ease them — probably — but I've never found it necessary with boiled wool, as long as the sleeve is against the feed dogs. So here it is on the form:

A couple of points here:
  • This form has gone through multiple moves (over, I don't know, more than 10 years?) and really has seen better days. I think it might have become asymmetrical, and it's developed a tendency to automatically shift downward on its stand over time (I do move it from room to room a lot, which I'm sure it doesn't appreciate). The fabric covering is kind of clingy, which has its upsides and downsides: things don't fall off right away if I'm draping, but it's also hard to get anything that's finished put on straight. The form also has narrower shoulders and a hollower chest than I do, and I really need to readjust the hip size.... In any case, I believe it's an older edition of a My Double. I have no idea how things have changed since, and I can't compare it to any other adjustable forms; the only other things I've used are standard-sized Wolfs (and a couple other brands I can't recall).
  • There's a fair amount of ease in this pattern. I think that's just as well, given that it's unlined.
  • I'm pretty happy with the sleeve fit. They could be better if they were two-piece, but they're about as good as one-piece get, I think.
  • Several reviewers said the sleeves were too wide. I did narrow the bands, but not the bicep width, as any extra there is much appreciated.
  • The sleeves will have bands added on, making them longer. I do need to check the length, but it might be fine... unlined sleeves, you know, ride up with wear anyway.
  • I swear my inter-button distance isn't uneven, though it looks it in this photo.
  • I may need to lengthen the princess darts. They were substantially shortened in my waist-length alteration, but maybe they should not have been. I might actually do the facing topstitching and maybe even the hem before I decide on that. I don't want to take too much out and have the fronts pitch apart, but it'll be easier to judge once the facing edge is flattened out more permanently.

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