2014-05-06

Pocket placement on Simplicity 1540

I'm working on placing the pockets on this coat. (Well, I also took in the side seams, but I think I'm going to have to reverse at least some of that. It had been bigger than necessary in the hips, but it had a nice slight flare that's now lacking, and I think it looks kind of sad-sack without it.)


On the right of the photo, the pockets are just a touch below where the pattern intends them to be: the upper edge is meant to be in line with the top of the lowest button. This felt excessively high. I can see why they did it, though. Views C and D are much shorter; this is where the pocket would have to be for it not to extend into (or past!) the hem. On a short jacket, you do what you have to do.

I didn't notice anyone complaining about the placement on Patternreview, but then nobody made the coat in this length.

To place the pocket on the left of the photo, I put a coat with reasonably-placed pockets on my form, and marked with pins on the form the top and bottom of the hand entry (these were near-vertical welt pockets, so not entirely comparable, but I had to make do) as well as the bottom of the pocket bag. The bottom of this patch pocket is about where the bottom of the RTW pocket bag was. It feels much better. I'm not sure which version I think looks better, but I'm going to go with something more like the one on the left; I think the one on the right will just feel too awkward, unnecessarily so given that the coat is long enough to support a lower placement. This does mean I have to lengthen the princess darts for sure.

On a side note, I've been reading Passformfehler, which has possibly some of the best coverage of balance issues (in fitting) that I've seen. I might go into more detail on that later, but this is just to say I think part of the reason things don't hang right on my dress form could be that it has a very flat upper back/very little shoulder blade shape. Not that I'm about to pad it out right before I move, but it'll be something to consider.

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