2014-11-11

Kwik-Sew 3473: bodice underlined

So, the bodice of this dress is all backed and sewn together, and the seam allowances serged. Here it is, albeit not quite in focus.

I'd like to have been able to place the print in less of a near-repetitive way, but it was difficult getting everything cut from of my yardage, especially with the big bias skirt pieces. It could be worse — at least I don't have two round motifs each precisely centered you-know-where.

Here's the plan for the rest:
  • The sleeves are unlined and have been French-seamed. They have elbow shaping, which is nice. I have yet to decide exactly what I'll do with the armscye seam allowances.
  • I will probably do a bias facing on the neckline, but I may put that off until I put the dress together and see how low it is. It's staystitched so at least the stitching line area shouldn't stretch. Fusing something to it might have been more effective, but that's the problem with not knowing in advance where the neckline is going to end up — I wouldn't want to have to rip the fusible off if I had to change it.
  • The two skirt layers are each assembled, the lining with plain seams and the shell with French seams. The latter are not wonderfully well done. I gave them a good steaming, which might or might not be enough of a save. If I think they still look too objectionable, I will redo the second pass of each seam. I also need to decide whether the plain seams on the lining are enough. Because of the (near-)bias cut they don't seem to fray, but this should survive hand washing at least.
  • Once all those issues are decided, the layers should be sewn together at the waist and onto the bodice. I am somewhat concerned about bulk here, though the darts are also four layers and don't seem too bad.
  • Both skirt layers and the sleeves will have to be hemmed. I will have to decide the relative lengths of shell and lining for the skirt. The whole thing looks quite long at the moment but we'll see.
  • The CF may get the optional bow. I have the pieces cut in self fabric; I'll sew it up and see how it looks.
By the way, I recklessly used the iron shoeless on this, with no press cloth, on the silk setting (well, not that recklessly — I did test first, briefly). There was no problem with shine or anything. Both layers are rayons, the shell supposedly viscose and the lining definitely Bemberg.

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