Schnittquelle Oslo preliminary fit

I compared this pattern to my block today.

It should be noted that I bought a size smaller than some of my measurements would have called for. To the best of my recollection there used to be a more detailed measurement chart on their site, and my decision was based in some way on that.

Anyway, here's what I'm noticing about this pattern so far.

• It seems pretty close-fitting, at least in the upper torso and the sleeves. Since I'm using a relatively thin boiled wool with a fair amount of stretch, this may not be a bad thing, but if I'd used something heavier I'd probably have wanted to start with a bigger size. (The site does say it's fitted.)
• It seems like the side seams are placed fairly far forward. I get the impression this is more typical for German patterns than American ones. In any event, I did a fairly substantial FBA to add a lot of width to the front, and I added the same width to the upper part of the skirt to match (and to shift its decorative dart toward the side to match the shifted dart in the bodice). I rotated the FBA dart into the shoulder dart. I hope it doesn't end up too pointy, but the give of the wool should help.
• There's a lot of flare in the hips. You can see some of this in the back photo on the website.
• The shoulders are kind of sloped compared to my block, which probably means they're about average. I squared off (raised) the back shoulder tip quite a bit.
• The sleeves seem kinda narrow at the biceps for an overcoat, but I guess YMMV depending on your arm size. The overarm seam would make minor alterations easier. For my wide biceps, I did two separate Nancy-Zieman-style alterations to add width to the front and back sleeve. On the back sleeve I allowed that extra width to impinge up into the cap, to match my squared back shoulder seam.
• The sleeves also don't seem all that long. I would definitely recommend double-checking the length. You don't have a hem allowance to play with if they're too short.
• The waist length is not that long either, nor is the armhole depth. I'm thinking this pattern is actually rather like a Kwik-Sew, but with a neater fit than those usually have.
• I made Jacke Malmedy some time ago, and for me, the upper back seemed pretty far off: a little too wide and a lot too long. I actually ended up recutting the upper part of it by shifting the pattern down to take the extra length out. It remains to be seen how this pattern will behave in actual fabric, but so far I don't see the same problem here.
• I think it will be substantially longer than knee length, but I wasn't paying a lot of attention to that, so more on that later.