Roll line on single-layer boiled wool jacket

Here's the roll line on the Malmedy jacket I finished the other day.

Since this is a single-layer jacket (no lining, no facings), this is technically on the outside, but hidden when the shawl collar flips down (and because I ended the tape a bit above the breakpoint).

I used plain-weave fusible tape here. Normally I'd have used a non-fusible tape, but this is all I have in a dark color at the moment. It remains to be seen how well this will work long-term.

I cut it shorter than the flat measurement of the roll line (by, let's say, 1" total) and catchstitched it on, easing the fabric, thus the ripples you see creating shadows on the right edge. Then I steamed it a little, flipped the collar out along the roll line, and, from the inside, pressed LIGHTLY with a lot of steam to form the roll without it becoming too much of a sharp crease.

This way, the roll line stays pretty well established and I don't have to do too much fidding with it every time I put on the jacket.