Today I ripped out the side seams on the boiled wool jacket so that I could take in a whole inch at the top of the back side seam, let out 3/8" at the hem up through the waist, and blend in between. This isn't a perfect alteration, but it might be the best that can be done without recutting. I may mess with the darts, front and back, as well.
I think the problem is mainly that I didn't trust my own measurements enough and alter the upper back to be quite a bit shorter and narrower with respect to the front, and, shall we say, the lower back quite a bit wider. Short of having back armhole princess seams, I suspect the best flat-pattern alteration might be to cut a short diagonal downward from the "corner" of the back armhole, cut a straight line up from the hem to meet it leaving a hinge point, and pivot width in at the hem and out at the armhole. I'd like to try it sometime.
There's still some iffiness going on around the armholes, I mean the raglan seams, but I'll have to rip those anyway to distribute the extra sleeve width, so we'll see then. The jacket seems much more comfortable with the changes I've made so far.
As for the blouse, I've taken the sleeves back off but haven't done anything else.
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