Butterick 3421: first look at the cut

I have been measuring and examining this pattern to see what alterations it might need.

From the sketch one would expect an ordinary princess-seamed style, but one of its most interesting aspects is the side front's grainline and shape.

It isn't shown on the envelope back, but the grainline tilts much more toward the side front seam than usual. It's nearly parallel to the side front seam along the flared part of the skirt. The piece also continues the inward curve (which starts below the bust, as it would on any princess-seamed dress) far below the waist; flare is added below the hip. I don't know whether these oddities are a good idea or not; it'd be interesting to see them in fabric.

Comparing this to my fitting shell, first of all, it's meant to be about two sizes bigger: 40-34-43". That seems to be reflected in the larger waist and hip measurements on the pattern, though there is surprisingly little bust ease (at most about 1/2" total). I have to wonder if either the previous owner trimmed some off (always hard to tell with unprinted patterns; there's an area without notches or hole punches where this could have been done without it being evident) or if this is a reflection of the 1920s' flat-chested look. There seems to be around 4.75" waist ease and 2.5" hip ease, though exactly how far down the full hip is meant to be can only be guessed at.

The waist length also seems inordinately long at first glance, especially in front, though it may be partly that the shoulder seams are placed farther back than I am used to. I need to recheck that. The armholes look quite shallow, but it's nice that the pattern gives separate cutting marks for the sleeved and sleeveless versions.